The Struggles of a Surfer who wasn't given the privilege of growing up by the beach. I live over 60 miles away from the closest Beach. I am not a Vally Surfer I am a Desert Surfer!
Sunday, July 24, 2011
Call To The Wall 2011
So this weekend I surfed in the Call To The Wall surf contest put on by Malibu boardriders surf club.The surf was super fun 2-3foot Malibu. But the day before the contest I stepped on a piece of glass at secos beach. It was super deep so that night I cleaned it and super glued it. The cut was super sensitive because there are allot of nerves where I cut it. I thought for sure I would not surf I honestly could barley walk. My dad told me just go for it the $100.00 entry fee goes tords a good donation so I did. I found out today I can surf very front footed if I want to which means no pressure on my back cut foot so I was Stoked! I was able to surf and I made it to the Finals and Placed 3rd in Men's div 1 Longboard. All in all a great weekend spent surfing with friends I couldn't be more STOKED!!!
Friday, July 15, 2011
Wednesday, July 13, 2011
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
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